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SEED STARTING BASICS
Many seeds grow and mature when sown directly in the garden but a number of vegetables, flowers and herbs need a head start. Our short growing season just doesn't give them enough time to flower and bear fruit. Here are the basic components of seed starting. It's not hard.
SOIL: You will need a light growing medium made of peat moss, vermiculite and perlite, also called soilless medium, which allows excess moisture to drain away quickly. Some gardeners make their own mix and we sell indoor potting mediums that are also suitable.
CONTAINERS need to be at least 3" deep to allow proper root development and they must have drainage holes to keep roots from rotting. Cut-off milk cartons, disposable aluminum roasting pans, small pots or special seed starting containers like peat pots, peat pellets or plastic flats will all work. The roomier the container the longer your seedlings will be happy in them.
TEMPERATURE: Many common vegetables and flowers are native to tropical regions and therefore need a constant soil temperature of 75dg to germinate. You can keep seed trays warm by placing them on top of a refrigerator, on a heat vent or an electric seed propagation mat. (Be careful, warmer air means faster evaporation.) Not all seeds need warmth to germinate though. In fact, seeds for native Michigan plants sprout well at cooler temperatures. Read each seed packet carefully to see if a temperature is specified.
MOISTURE: Seeds need to be kept constantly moist in order to germinate. Never let the soil dry out but don't over-water either. Moisten the soil to the consistency of a wrung out sponge before sowing your seeds.
SOWING SEEDS: Timing is essential. Time your sowings according to the average last frost date, about May 21st here in Ann Arbor. Depending on the variety, seeds should be sown anywhere from two to ten weeks before this date. Read seed packets carefully and plan accordingly.
Get plant labels or Popsicle sticks ready with the plant name and date sowed. Fill containers almost to the top with moistened soil. Tamp it down gently and smooth it out. Drop seeds in 1 to 2" apart if using a large flat or 2-3 seeds together in smaller individual containers. The extra seeds are for insurance. Eventually you'll thin out the weakest plants to leave one per small container. Cover seeds with a bit of soil. Water thoroughly and carefully with a mist sprayer or sprinkling can with a very fine, upward pointing rose. Water should be room temperature or a little warmer.
After sowing, drape a piece of film wrap over your container or use a dome specially designed to fit seed starting flats. Be sure to let a little air in to prevent fungus.
Check daily for growth and water as needed to keep the surface of the growing medium evenly moist.
LIGHT: At the very first signs of green you'll need to give the seedlings light, and lots of it. Without enough light you'll end up with pale, weak, leggy seedlings that will never grow to maturity. In most houses seedlings don't get nearly enough light in a window. The best way to remedy this situation is to grow under florescent fixtures. Use 4' shop lights with florescent tubes. In order to be effective they must be suspended no more than 2" above the plants and kept on 16 to 18 hours a day. As your seedlings grow you will need to raise the lights.
MOISTURE: Seedlings require less moisture than germinating seeds because they now have a root. Begin watering less often and once they're a few inches tall you can let the top ½" of soil dry out between waterings. Water less frequently but more deeply than you did the seeds. Be careful of over watering which can encourage root rot or “damping off", a fatal fungus. Plenty of airflow around the containers will help prevent these hazards.
MASSAGE your seedlings. They'll love it. Brush them lightly with your hand a couple of times a day. It simulates a breeze bending them back and forth, strengthening their stems.
THINNING: When seedlings produce their second set of leaves, or “true" leaves, it's very important to thin them. You'll want only one plant per individual container. If seedlings aren't thinned they will compete for root space and nutrients. All of them will be weaker and more disease-prone than properly spaced plants.
FERTILIZER: When seedlings produce their “true" leaves they will be hungry for nutrients. Feed them ½ strength water-soluble fertilizer every ten days or so. Organic gardeners can use fish emulsion. Proper fertilization is crucial. Too much or not enough can be fatal.
HARDENING OFF: After the average last frost date, May 21st, when spring has warmed the air and soil, gradually bring your plants out. They have been sheltered and need to be acclimated slowly. Set them outdoors in their containers on a nice day. First, choose a lightly shaded, sheltered spot. Begin with a few hours of morning sun for a couple of days, then a half-day of sun, then a few full days of sun. Then start leaving them out at night too. Now your plants are ready to survive outdoor life.
SETTING OUT: After seedlings have been hardened off it's time to plant them outside. To avoid stress, plant late in the afternoon or on an overcast day. For ease in handling you won't want seedlings to be too moist or too dry. Dig them carefully out of their containers, holding them gently by the stems, not their fragile roots. Quickly get the root into a prepared hole and bury the plant up to its first pair of leaves. Tamp the soil firmly around it and water thoroughly to get rid of any air pockets and ensure good root-soil contact.
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